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1. Ashley
   Member Profile

   Hello, I am looking for some local recommendations installing hardwood floors.

   Also I got a quote from someone who isn't local for 1300.00 (labor) for a 650 sq foot area. Does that seem reasonable?

   Thanks!

   Posted 2 years ago #         

2. Carson
   Member Profile

   

   Ashley. Is it just for the install? Does the floor need to be sanded and finished or is it pre-engineered? What is it going over? Is the sub flooring prepped already? It would be difficult for anyone to give you a quote site unseen. $1300 would seem to be a fair price if that includes stapling the new floor down, sanding and 2 coats of finish, thats $2 a sq ft. If its engineered (pre finshed) you should pay about 1/2 that price.

   Posted 2 years ago #         

3. dhg
   Member Profile

   

   There are many choices for hardwood: nail down, glue down and floating snap together. I have a company installing floors in my home right now. The estimate comes to more like $4/sq foot but it involves moving furniture and a refrigerator and doing the stairs.

   Posted 2 years ago #         

4. Carson
   Member Profile

   

   dhg, right on the money, without seeing a project, tough to give an accurate bid!

   Posted 2 years ago #         

5. bsmomma
   Member Profile

   

   Feel free to give my husband, Jimmy Fuda, a call! He's a one man Contractor, Yankee Construction (YANKEC*926NF). (206)310-4986 http://www.yankeeconstruct.com We're local, very fair pricing, free estimates and he's done quite a few projects for WSBers! We're running a special promotion through the end of May 2010 5% of all labor is going to be donated to the NW Epilepsy Foundation!

   Posted 2 years ago #         

6. Ashley
   Member Profile

   Just linoleum on the floor right now. The prefinished hardwood is click together, floating, no glue no nails. We are moving the furniture and there are no stairs. No need to be sanded and finished either.

   Posted 2 years ago #         

7. Carson
   Member Profile

   

   So a Pergo type floor? 8mm? 7mm? thicker is more expensive, but much easier to install. Stairs? Cuts? Do you want trim installed? Do you have the underlayment, ie foam or felt?

   Posted 2 years ago #         

8. Ashley
   Member Profile

   3/4 of an inch for this estimate. no stairs. We will do trim ourselves and we are buying the underlayment ourselves as well. The only place they would be doing the cuts is the hallway.

   Posted 2 years ago #         

9. Carson
   Member Profile

   

   3/4 inch click hardwood? Floating? Are you sure about the size and if its 3/4 inch you want it to float as opposed to staple over the linoleum?

   Posted 2 years ago #         

10. Ashley
    Member Profile

    Well we chose 3 different kinds of wood for estimates. And labor was 1,300.00 for all three which I thought was sort of funny because they were 3 different types of laminate and hardwood with different installation types. Any companies you know I can call for an estimate?

    Posted 2 years ago #         

11. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    I still am confused with what kind of floor you have! One question, doing the trim is actually more difficult, and more exacting than actually doing the floor. If you can do the trim yourself, why not lay the flooring as well? The click laminate is simple, you can rent a floor stapler from HD and if you go with glue HD also sells the Bosticks Best (the best floor adhesive)

    Posted 2 years ago #         

12. BunBun
    Member Profile

    Hey I'm 'Ashley's' boyfriend. To answer some questions, the floor is all level, no stairs, 650sqft part of the house with all linoleum currently. The estimate they gave us was a single labor only estimate for $1300 which they said would be the same for either flooring type we chose. They gave us a price for laminate floating click together stuff and also for 3/4 inch glue down engineered wood.
    I guess our main question here is why would they only give us one quote when there is such a difference in the installation method of these two flooring materials. At $2/sqft (not including materials) for the cheap click together stuff I would just assume we do it ourselves. However, if they will install real wood (glue or nail down) and include installing the trim for this price it seems like more of a fair price. The $1300 is for labor only, no materials.
    If we were to do it ourselves, which I'm inclined to do, I'm wondering how level do we need to make sure the floor is? do we have to pull up the linoleum first if we are just putting down floating click-together laminate? Is it worth the additional work of glue down or nail down to pay someone to do it?
    Thanks for the advice.

    Posted 2 years ago #         

13. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    BunBun,

    The floor needs to be super flat and level. You don't want to use glue if you can use staples. For example, if you have a concrete floor, use the glue. The glue is also expensive, $150 for 5 gallons and you would need 2 of them, so thats $300 alone. You can rent a stapler for about $40. A box of staples (you will use a little less than 1/2 the box) will set you back another $50. Try Craigslist for a 1/2 box of staples. Make sure they fit the stapler, the Bostitch is the standard. If you can take up the linoleum, I would take it up, but if its level and is the EXACT same for all 650 feet you can probably lay the new floor and staple right over it. Again, if its over concrete, you need to take it off. If you take off the linoleum get a good scraper and heavy duty heat gun for the stubborn spots.

    My plate is way to full to take on a job, but if you need a hand, drop me a note, I might consider a labor trade (you help me, I help you)

    mark@10thingsithinkithink.com

    Posted 2 years ago #         

14. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    and if you haven't bought the floor, I have an acct at Kelly Goodwin http://www.kellygoodwin.com/home.html wholesale is always better than retail!

    Posted 2 years ago #         

15. BunBun
    Member Profile

    It's linoleum over wood subfloor. I believe it's fairly level, but I haven't checked the flatness with a long level or straight edge. How flat would we need? like less than 1/8" in 8'?
    We are still pricing everything out, but it's sounding like our most cost effective option is going to be a nail down engineered prefinished wood ourselves. I've heard the glue wont stick to the linoleum but if we're using staples can we install over the linoleum?

    Posted 2 years ago #         

16. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    Flat and level are not the same!! You need flat, much more than level! You don't want to glue over the linoleum, your bond is only as strong as the top layer of the linoleum, and that's not very strong. You can staple over the linoleum as long as you have solid wood under the linoleum

    Posted 2 years ago #         

17. Ashley
    Member Profile

    Carson! I will have my boyfriend contact you! Thanks!

    Posted 2 years ago #         

18. BunBun
    Member Profile

    Hey Carson, I know the difference between flat and level fortunately. I was wondering how FLAT is needed? and if there was a low or high spot what method would you use to make it flat? It would be great to have an experienced hand to give me pointers if we decide to do it ourselves. I'll contact you about a possible labor trade. Thanks!

    Posted 2 years ago #         

19. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    BunBun, I would start with a piece of the flooring, and again, it all depends on what you go with. Small dents are not a big deal, but if you put down a larger piece and stand on it and it rocks, you have issues. The linoleum, if you keep it should be flat and have just enough give to be fine. If you have high points, a belt sander but the linoleum will gum the belt up when it heats up.

    Posted 2 years ago #         

20. homedk
    Member Profile

    Since you haven’t yet purchased the flooring materials, here’s my two cents worth. If this is for your living room, I would recommend that you choose real wood & nail it down. Real wood will usually age more gracefully; it will sound better when people walk on it; & it will usually add more value to your home if you ever sell. Engineered hardwoods & laminates like Pergo may be initially less expensive, & glue-down or floating may be easier & cheaper than nailing, but sometimes these types of floors echo or sound hollow when walked on (even with good underlayment). You can often see at a glance the seams between sections…so it doesn’t usually look as natural as floors that are installed piece-by-piece. Lastly, you can’t always repair, sand or refinish if you end up with scratches & dings. Unless you are installing it in a basement, I would recommend that you go with real hardwoods, especially if your home is a vintage home.

    Posted 2 years ago #         

21. Ashley
    Member Profile

    We have narrowed it down to a Strand woven bamboo which seems really durable and can be refinished 3 times and a Brazilian Koa. There is a Brazilian Koa engineered wood and real wood but the engineered is thicker.

    Posted 2 years ago #         

22. Carson
    Member Profile

    

    Ashley, Avoid the bamboo. If you want to go engineered and save money, try Costco. Serious, and they have the bamboo.

    Posted 2 years ago #         

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